Cartier watch repair and servicing

The 1840’S

The brand was founded in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier in Paris and was under his control until 1874 until his son, Alfred took over the business. However, it was thanks to his sons Louis, Pierre and Jacques, that the brand became a recognisable name worldwide which it remains today. Alfred’s son Louis Cartier was passionate about pocket watches, but when his pilot friend, Alberto Santos-Dumont, complained about the impracticality of using pocket watches Louis was inspired to create the first Cartier wristwatch in 1904. His design incorporated a distinctive square bezel. The watch was named the “Santos” and proved popular with many other customers. After this success, it was Louis who held responsibility for the Cartier Branch in Paris, and it was his eye for design that led to some of the brand’s most popular watch styles, including the mystery clock.

Mystery clocks hands seem to float, but in fact, each hand is fixed to a clear crystal (or citrine) disc which rotates.

Their faces appear solid crystal but are a sandwich of crystal, with the filling being the discs with hands.

The two discs move, driven by works in the base and by unseen connecting gears fixed at 6 o’clock in the frame.

Today Cartier still create this fantastic design with their new Rotonde De Cartier Astromystérieux watch taking inspiration from these original designs. The movement, which is in-house made at Cartier’s haute horology workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, is the new calibre 9462 MC. The total movement, including what you can and cannot see, is comprised of 408 parts and is 39mm wide by 5.9mm thick.

After the success of the mystery watches in the 1800’s Cartier began contracts with companies such as Edmond Jaeger, who agreed to supply the movements for Cartier watches exclusively.

1907

Now it was 1907, and the brand had expanded to London, New York and Saint Petersburg and was growing in success and popularity. It was in these years that the Bagniore, Tortue and Tank model were produced, both of which are still popular today.

The “Baignoire” was first created in 1906 and demonstrated Cartier’s prowess in crafting watchmaking forms. A discreetly elegant ellipse uniquely forged in a single line, the “Baignoire” watch is the essence of Cartier style: a unique marriage of purity and timeless chic. Today the Baignore is exclusively part of the Carter women’s collection.

1912

Louis Cartier imagined a tortoise-inspired watch, the Tortue, in 1912. At a time when all watches were round, the groundbreaking design went on to earn the status of a classic. Cartier offers both ladies’ and men’s models of this watch in a full range of styles, available in gold, and can even be purchased set or fully paved with diamonds.

1917

Louis Cartier created the Tank watch in 1917. A legend was born. The prototype was presented as a gift to General Pershing some years before the watch was brought to market in 1919. The lugs blend seamlessly into the stark edges of flat vertical brancards, lending the watch its unique aesthetic. The clean, crisp lines have proved hugely popular with a free-spirited, elegant clientèle. The now-iconic Tank watch has inspired countless variations yet managed to preserve its distinctive identity. The tanks of the western front inspired the design of these pieces. Over 30 different Cartier watch styles have been created using this design.

The 1920’S

In the early 1920s, Cartier joined with Edward Jaeger to create a company which designed and produced movements solely for Cartier. The brand started adding their reference numbers to the watches they sold, which was typically a four-digit code under the lug. The watch brand continued to grow and was eventually headed up in New York City by Louis’ brother, Pierre. In 1964 Pierre Cartier died and his children, along with their cousin Jean-Jacque Cartier sold the business.

2019

The Cartier 2019 Santos-Dumont, proudly shows the signature of the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. The design of the watch purposefully remains close to the original design of 1904 (although it was not available to the public until 1911). Cases are available in gold, gold and steel or all steel. Cartier has also kept the iconic Roman numerals, the visible screws and blue cabochon. The crown on this new 2019 model is larger than its more modern predecessors, more similar in size to a more vintage model. This widely anticipated watch does not disappoint.

The decision was made to produce the watch in stainless steel (whereas historically it has only been available in precious metals) to widen the audience of the Santos-Dumont, although a platinum bracelet is available on request.

POST FAMILY OWNERSHIP

In 1972, a group of investors created Cartier’s slogan “Les Must de Cartier” which translates to “Cartier. It’s a must!” The same investors went on to purchase Cartier London and New York. The brands were combined to create “Cartier Monde”.

In 1994 Robert Hocq of “Les Must de Cartier” died suddenly, and control of the company passed to his sister. Since 2012 Cartier has been owned by Richemont and the 24-year-old granddaughter of Pierre Cartier.